I have
this amazing ability of letting things eat at me until I complete them.
This holds true for everything in my life, but it holds especially true
when it comes to distance riding. This character trait led to my essentially
riding from Canada to Mexico TWICE in a week to get my IBA Border to
Border certificate, and leads into this most recent story.
Two
years ago to the week, I broke my ankle on the 2003 GLMC Buffalo Run.
Soon after that, my riding friends Ron and Carrie decided to get their
IBA Lake Superior 1000 certificate. Since I was in a cast up to my knee,
I couldn't go with. From that point on, I'd been planning to get it,
but just hadn't found the time. Last year I chose to get my GLC100 certification
instead, and I'd been so busy this summer I barely had time to ride
at all.
Normally,
the Buffalo Run is on Labor Day weekend, and I'd signed up early as
usual. Unfortunately, few others did, and thus the ride was cancelled
this year. This gave me a free weekend on which I was planning on riding
anyway - perfect timing to get my LS1000!
The
LS1000 requires you to circumnavigate Lake Superior in under 24 hours,
starting and ending in the same city - the total distance is about 1060
miles. Living in the Twin Cities, the lake is about 120 miles north
of me, so if I'd started at home, it would have been about 1300 miles.
On mostly two-lane road, that would have been pretty aggressive, so
I had to find a start location closer to the lake.
My
parents have a cabin between Cable and Drummond, WI, about 25 miles
south of Lake Superior, so that seemed like a perfect starting point.
Plus, with it being Labor Day, I'd have built in witnesses, as they'd
be there. I left home at about 6 on Friday night, and had to fight terrible
holiday weekend traffic. Fortunately, growing up in the NE metro, I
knew some shortcuts, like taking old Hwy 61 (the same one Dylan sang
of) from my hometown of Forest Lake all the way up to Rock Creek where
I crossed into Wisconsin. The whole way I could see the cars backed
up on I-35 - good thing they didn't know of my alternate route! Still,
the ride took about four hours, and I showed up around 10.
When
I knocked on the door, nobody answered. Weird. Finally I went to the
upstairs balcony, and my stepmom Jackie came to the door. We exchanged
hello's, but something was off.
Me:
"You weren't expecting me, were you?"
Jackie: "No, but that's okay - what's up?"
Me: "Dad's not here, is he?"
Jackie: "No."
Me: "He didn't tell you I was coming?"
Jackie: "No."
I explained
why I was there, but I was NOT happy at this point. I'd told my dad
multiple times I was coming up, and confirmed that he'd be there, as
I needed a witness. Fortunately Jackie agreed to sign my forms, but
had she not been there, I'd have had to scrounge up a witness in rural
Wisconsin at 4:30 am - a virtually impossible task!
I went
to bed soon after, and set the alarm for 3:45. I left the house at 4,
and headed up to Drummond, the next town up the road. The BP station
there wasn't open, but they have 24 hour pay at the pump, so that became
my starting receipt. No problems there. Start time was officially 4:34
am. It was pitch black out with no moon, and I saw a few deer on Hwy
63 heading up to Ashland. Nothing major though. When I hit Hwy 2 in
Ashland though, it got really COLD. The thermometer on the bike read
36 degrees. Even with my heated jacket and grips, that's cold for riding.
Couple that with pea soup fog coming off the lake, and my ride wasn't
starting out comfortably.
The
sun started to come up around the time I hit the WI/MI border at Ironwood.
It was a little slower through here, as there are a lot of small ski
resort towns to go through. As I came out of the resort area, I increased
my speed, only to have a deer pop right out in front of me! I saw her
in the ditch, so I'd slowed down quite a bit, but she decided to bolt
in front of me (and an oncoming minivan) when I was only about 10 yards
away. Easily my closest call with a deer on a bike - I hope never to
get closer.
The
ride across the UP is pretty nice. There are some neat beaches along
the stretch, with some 2-4 steady waves. People do surf on the Great
Lakes, and it's something I've always wanted to do - I should find a
way to haul my surfboard on my bike! There seemed to be a fair amount
of construction on this stretch though, with a lot of one-lane bridges
with temporary stoplights slowing me down. My first gas stop was in
Munising at a Shell Station. As I've written before, avoid Holiday stations
on IBA rides, as they often don't print the location on the receipt.
Problem was, most of the gas stations in the UP were Holiday's, so I
was glad to find a Shell (which usually are really good for receipts).
I fueled up and headed for Sault St. Marie (the Soo).
Gas
was really expensive, as a result of Hurricane Katrina the week before,
so even though I didn't need to fill up, I chose to get gas again on
the Michigan side at the Soo, as gas in Canada is even more expensive.
After a quick top-off I headed for the border. The bridge over the locks
was really cool, and the sun was nice and bright. I had no real problems
crossing the border, though the customs agent did inquire about my fuel
cell ("What's THAT thing?") and I headed north.
Since
I'd passed through here on my GLC a year before, I knew my way through
town, which was good, because I'd also got lost here the year before.
The ride north of the Soo on Hwy 17 is beautiful. The water almost looks
like the Caribbean in places it's so blue. It was still a cool day temperature-wise,
never really getting above 65 or so. As such, I never removed my heated
jacket, though I didn't have it turned on most of the day. At least
I wasn't at home, where according to the Minneapolis weather report
on XM radio, it had been storming all day!
I stopped
again in Marathon, at the top of the lake, remembering not to stop at
the Petro-Canada where Macauley Culkin was working the year before (see
my GLC report for this story). This was a little bit longer of a stop,
and I grabbed something to eat at the same time. Another couple from
MN on a Harley was there, traveling the opposite way. At this point,
I was making really good time, so barring breaking down or crashing,
I slowed down some to enjoy the scenery. The ride between Marathon and
Nipigon is really nice, as the road follows the bluffs along the lake.
I stopped quickly in Nipigon to refill my water jug, and started checking
on sunset times. I wanted to make the border before sunset, as the danger
of moose on the road is pretty scary between Thunder Bay and the border.
I
made the border right at sunset, about 7:40 central time, and pulled
into Grand Marais just as it got completely dark. I filled up again
and had a sandwich, and headed south. There are quite a few deer on
the north shore of MN, but once you get south of Tofte, there are small
towns every few miles, which break up the ride quite a bit. I ran into
some nasty road construction outside of Beaver Bay though. Several miles
of gravel and broken road aren't much fun after riding for 16 hours
and it being dark out.
I hit
Duluth-Superior around 11:30 or so, and had to navigate through Superior
on the first weekend of college at UMD and UWS. Lots of impaired drivers
around, and I was glad to get out of there. I stopped at the edge of
town to get a Diet Coke, and my receipt had no address. I wrote down
the address, but I don't know that I needed it, since it wasn't a gas
stop, and since there's no other way to get from Grand Marais to Drummond,
WI without a boat!
I headed
out of Superior on Highway 2, into more fog and cold. There was little
traffic at the time, and I was starting to get worried about wildlife.
The GPS was routing me to turn down a county road at Brule, but I chose
to override it and keep on US 2, when I saw no ditch and a sign that
said "Rough Road". I did turn off in Iron River on another county road,
as it would, in theory, save me about a half hour. Of course, as Homer
Simpson said, "In theory Marge, communism works. In theory…"
This
road was better, but I still had to dial it down to about 40 mph to
look for deer. Compared to the rest of the ride, the miles seemed to
click off on the GPS incredibly slow. Then, I came to my last turn to
head into Drummond, and as I came to the stop sign, a police car came
screaming down the road, lights and sirens blaring. This scared the
crap out of me, because I wasn't expecting it, and because it was nearly
1 am in the middle of nowhere. The cop turned at the stop sign I was
at, and slowed to give me a look like "what is this weirdo doing out
here at this hour?" He or she obviously had more important things to
deal with, but I got out of there quickly before they changed their
mind. I wasn't doing anything wrong, but I wasn't in the mood to visit
with one of Bayfield County's finest at that hour either.
I pulled
into the BP station in Drummond at 1:04, exactly 20 hours and 30 minutes
from when I left that morning, tired and happy at completing my ride.
I sat on a rock for a few minutes and then rode back to the cabin. After
seeing very few animals on my ride, I came across four deer and a fox
on US 63 on the way back to the cabin. The Distance Riding Gods were
toying with me!
When
I reached the cabin, the lights were on, and my dad, who had come up
that day, was up along with Jackie, and I had my forms signed, recorded
my odometer, and went to sleep. Total GPS mileage was 1082.6. On writing
up my paperwork to submit to the IBA, I realized that not only was this
my seventh IBA certification, but it was also my tenth 1000 mile day.
That may seem like a lot (and it is to many riders), but that isn't
even one Iron Butt Rally! This years IBR finished the day I left on
this ride, and I couldn't help but have all the respect in the world
for the guys who can complete that ride, knowing how I feel after doing
1000 miles. Maybe someday, but until then, I have to find another distance
riding goal to plan for. Something has to happen to eat at me to get
in that driven mood - I just hope it's not more broken bones!
Overall
time : 20:30
Miles (odometer): 1098
Miles (GPS): 1082.6
Moving average speed: 58.3 mph(GPS)
Total average speed: 51.8 mph (GPS)